A Book Worth Starting: Fremantle, WA

A Book Worth Starting: Fremantle, WA
Perth, Australia

Perth, Australia


Under the olive tree, the warm rays of the afternoon sun warm my skin. In true Spanish style, the terracotta brickwork forms arches over the grass area. The trickling sounds of the fountain competes with the faint piano keys coming from within. Dark wooden floors, high ceilings, blinding rays of sun shine through the colonial style church windows. This place is truly beautiful and perfect for a place to relax as it’s perfectly situated across the road from Little Creatures Brewery, the port and the stunning WA coast line. With so many destinations on the Virgin Australia network, we chose Fremantle to go for a week long holiday with Mum and Dad. Our venture to ‘somewhere’ needed to meet just two criteria. The destination must have:

  1. multiple flights scheduled per day – flying stand by
  2. airbnb accommodation, central enough to house 6 people comfortably. With the chaos leading up to the end of the year, I literally only started looking for travel destinations 7 days before take off.

With the criteria in mind, we ‘limited’ our destinations down to somewhere in Australia, New Zealand, Fiji or Vanuatu. Although from an outsiders perspective that may seem like a very broad search, it was limited by there only being 1% of airbnb listings still available for the week between Christmas and New Year. With one mission for the whole week stop, breathe and read at least a chapter in a book, we chose The Russell House in Fremantle, Perth, Western Australia. Like every family holiday, we each chose a friend to bring along. I chose Mel, and Dave chose Jin.

In typical Julia style, I packed the morning of departure and we set off for our short flight just 6 hours across the country to the welcoming arms our very pregnant friend, Steph. You would think from the amount of travelling we have done packing would become less painful but the concept of having to narrow down which outfit to choose never gets easier. Anyway, I digress. One of the advantages of heading to WA was spending a night with Steph and Sam before the crew arrived. One would say we planned it quite well; a pregnant friend makes for the perfect designated driver after an afternoon of beers overlooking the stunning Scarborough beach while catching up on three years worth of travel stories.

By the time the crew arrived the next day we had already tested out the water to ensure I had enough evidence to get get mum into the water. However, I should know by now that the way to get her to do anything is tell her she can’t or won’t. It worked too. Both mum and dad joined us for a few of the swims at Cottesloe, Fremantle and Hillarys.

Thankfully Jin’s known me long enough to hide the fact he hadn’t been to Perth before, otherwise a fully scheduled holiday may have occurred. Even though it was a ‘list free’ holiday, we still managed to squeeze into the 5 days:

  • train trip to Perth which included shopping with mum while Dave took the others to his favourite stop, the Perth Mint.
  • venture down to Penguin Island so the boys could take the inflatable kayaks around the island – bike trip around the river
  • day of beach hopping
  • sailing on the Swan
  • one of the highlights with Dad
  • Swan Region tour of the wineries, breweries, distilleries, chocolate and cheese shops
  • New Years at Little creatures brewery which was by far the better choice over The Monk Brewery which sold undrinkable beers and cider. (Is that even possible?)
  • write a list! I just couldn’t resist the urge but it had only one item
  • read a chapter in my book. That was my objective on this holiday and I exceeded it by three whole chapters so it must have been relaxing and we obviously had too much time to spare!

As I sit here on the plane, on the 2nd day of the new year, I’m excited by the year ahead. Excited to be starting uni in a month, finishing the two building projects and no doubt planning the next one, squeezing in a few holidays and finishing my book!! Let it begin…

 

 

 

Cairns: You just can’t plan these things

Cairns: You just can’t plan these things
Cairns City, Australia

Cairns City, Australia


I think it’s safe to say I love a schedule, a plan or a list but sometimes, you just can’t plan these things!

It all started a few days ago when Libby asked if we wanted to join her and Jeremy for a standby trip to Vanuatu. For those not in the airline industry, the whole concept of flying somewhere with two days notice may seem a bit daft but I am learning quickly that it brings out the spontaneous side.

I digress, skip forward a few days to Dave and I riding home at 2am just a few hours before Jin’s at the door and we have two mins to pack our bags, grab the Panadol for the splitting headache and head for the airport. Then the few frantic texts later sees us cancelling the flights, due to a dodgy runway inflicting havoc on the network. Determined to go somewhere, we chuck a few bits and pieces into a bag and grab our passports before heading over to Libby and Jeremy’s to rebook to go “somewhere”. Raro, Fiji, LA, Samoa are all showing ‘full’ but Bali still has flights free, one catch…the plane was to leave in 1hr 20mins. Libby books the flights, Jeremy packs the bags, Dave’s on accommodation, Jin’s counting immigration USDs and I’m hauling bags into a taxi for the quickest 10 minute trip to the airport we’ve ever had. With a huge sigh of relief we manage to arrive four measly minutes before checkin closed, only to be told Dave’s passport wasn’t valid for travel as didn’t have 6 months validity on the passport. Looks like Bali’s off too..

Determined not to give up and a little excited to know there’s not many times in your life you can just ‘jump on the next plane’, we start the process of elimination: must leave soon, must be warm, must serve cocktails. Quite obviously that eliminates everywhere except Cairns but thankful it didn’t leave too soon as we enjoyed a few sneaky mimosas in the Lounge prior to the adventure really beginning.

Although we didn’t quite get to the Balinese villa with private pool, the gigantic apartment surrounded by three pools was a mighty fine runner up – quite honestly cider in a pool that’s 35 degrees is fabulous wherever you are. (Unless you’re Dave, who is now covered in insect bites the size of 50 cent pieces).

We contemplated going to the reef but opted to do things we hadn’t all done before, so went swimming at Josephine Falls, gorged ourselves on Cheese and Wine at the Tablelands, flicked our hair while listening to Peter Andre songs at Milla Milla falls, made a visit to the Avenue of Honour – a memorial for the fallen soldiers which had a special place for me as my childhood pen pal was among the named soldiers. We topped the day off with a massage (or two) at the night markets. Next day a swim/shower in the Esplanade pool was the perfect way to cool off after horse riding a trail just out of Cairns, we even managed to squeeze in a couple of canters. (Thank you Jeremy and Libby for an awesome birthday pressie!). I wouldn’t even know where to start or how to describe the amount of food we consumed in the last 48hours. Seafood lunches, cheese, mammoth breakfasts, ma and pa tea houses, wood fire pizzas, cheese, cheese, cheese and a sneaky margarita or two at Yourky’s Knob. I love traveling with these guys; a good mix of relaxing and sightseeing but definitely too much eating.

We were excited for Vanuatu, enthused for Bali but relished in Cairns. From what could have been anywhere, I’m glad we ended up in a beautiful part of our own state – far enough get into the holiday zone but close enough to be home for dinner. You just can’t plan these things!

 

A few days to relax

 

 

A few days to relax…
Bali, Indonesia

 

Bali, Indonesia

I am feeling very philosophical, so I’ve decided to start writing again. So much so, I’ve ordered a lemongrass tea with honey, because, that’s what you should do when you’re feeling philosophical. Forced time to relax is painfully difficult, but I’m 50% through a book so that’s enough evidence to keep those that say that “I can’t” at bay.

It’s incredible to see the dramatic difference in Bali, and Kuta in particular, over the last ten years. As I sit here, in a day bed sipping honey tea I’m reminiscing that not so long ago the footpath parallel to the ocean in Kuta, required jumping over potholes to avoid twisting an ankle. A few years on, the local markets have made way for boutique brands that require limitless budgets. After finishing the tea and laughing at the poor husband who has taken 1000 photos of his wife posing in front of the boutique shops, we head left for a massage before dinner at a funky Mexican place in Seminyak. (great recommendation, Fiona)

Day two, we head for a brand new beach club about 50minutes west to continue Dave’s effort to keep the relaxing going on for just that little bit longer. Six hours of $6 Toblerone cocktails later, we leave the seaside day beds in search of something more meaningful. Anyone who has been to Bali will grasp the frustration caused by drivers who offer their services every two metres. Getting a driver that knew of places with no tourists proved impossible. Admitting defeat, or so I thought, I booked a countryside cycling trip. At 8 am we left for a long drive inland to join our private guide, Sandi for an authentic cultural tour, “off the beaten track deep into rural Bali”. Off we went, down narrow tracks on the edges of the cliff, through rice paddies and into the bamboo forest where the fronds created a tunnel-like effect. Thirty kilometres of forest, back streets and farmland wound their way past what seemed like a warren of dirt paths and trails. I lost count with how many villages we passed through, each with their unique feel. Local Balinese children stood at the sides of the road, waving frantically. Local villagers stopped their daily activities to say hello, and one showed us into her kitchen; a stone pit in a bamboo hut. After an eventful day, our tour ended and our guide took us to a local market to get us some clothes so we could stay the night in a guest house in his village. The price difference between tourist’s markets and local’ s markets is astronomical. The anticipation that we would have another day with our guide was soon replaced with disappointment when we learned that he couldn’t follow through. Balinese certainly love to please but sadly can’t always deliver although normally with good reason. We heard a lot about the culture from Sandi, specifically the sense of community. Although having a tourist job in Bali may pay well, the long hours restrict the ability to participate in community ceremonies. After driving through Sandi’s village, I saw the extent the temple and its surrounding streets were decorated. Rightfully, Sandi replaced making a quick buck for adhering to his community responsibilities. Had we not taken the chance we wouldn’t have stayed in a guest house and gone with Sandi’s friend the following day to a quaint beach, tucked away between the cliffs. It was beautiful and kept up with the no tourist vibe we were aiming for. The water was so inviting, and I couldn’t help but enjoy an afternoon out on one of those little traditional wooden boats. As we weren’t planning for an overnight trip, we didn’t bring a charger for the camera, therefore, we have no photos of the coves that the boat took us to. The deep turquoise water was home to a myriad of colourful fish millimetres from our noses. Feeling a little blue to be leaving the serenity, we headed back to the madness of Kuta. Determined to stay relaxed, we were lured for an evening under the stars by the sounds of a local band playing on the grass. Dave requested a few songs while I ate dinner, banana deep-fried pancake and daiquiris. Hotel California “Balinese style” was the hit of the night!

That brings me to now, enjoying the last hour of sun before it sets on our last day in Bali. It’s a warm 30 degrees at 5pm. This is the first trip to Bali where it’s just been the two of us. I couldn’t be happier, side by side doing what we do best.

I never got to finish that book, so we might have to wait until the next semester break, but that’s Ok as I found my own way of relaxing. A lot of time was spent observing the change, observing the culture and indulging in the affordable luxuries. Trumping all else, was the time with my best mate.

 

 

 

Fiji Baby!

Fiji Baby!

Coral Coast, Fiji

Coral Coast, Fiji

This little adventure was more of an intervention from life’s busy schedule, rather than a planned trip, but nevertheless we booked with two objectives in mind “make Julia relaxed” and “book somewhere on the ocean”. The latter (my priority) was met perfectly with a private residence 2 hours onto the Coral Coast. A gigantic private Bure, with high swooping wooden ceilings had quite the Balinese charm. Ridiculously huge for two people,with its middle of nowhere location, it made us feel luxurious yet secluded. The wooden deck weaved between the private pool and trees shaded the lounges at the water’s edge of Maui Bay. I didn’t want a resort swamped by tourists, but rather a place where most nights we could be the only guests. True to its advertised quaintness, it was a place where the gardener scooted up the coconut tree to collect the morning drink and where the chef opened the window to pick some deliciously sweet Fijian bananas to top the pancakes. Two kiwi boys from down the road from where we both grew up, ran the family residence. Their jandals, singlets and kiwi hospitality fits right in with the Fijian way of life. The private residence, is just that. The main house has an open plan kitchen leading to a lounge area overlooking the pool. It’s the heart, with four other villas scattered between the palms.

Nopo, the resident chef doubles as the village Pastor, with Sai the waiter, masseuse and housekeeper along with the kiwi boys completing this little part of paradise. A paradise made for escaping to a sanctuary of tranquility. One of the boys will soon embark on a mission to a Tibetan monastery so we encouraged him to take us to the ocean’s edge for meditation under a sunset of pastels. Sai massaged us under the hibiscus tree and wine flowed easily as we perched on a log at the water’s edge. Horses collected us from our villa door for a ride up the mountain and through the water. Baby sharks and cobalt blue starfish lay in the shallow sea as we snorkelled through the coral forest. At high tide a bare half a meter of water was enough for a kayak and calm enough to just lay back and let the wind blow us by. Nights ended with a kava ceremony, card games or dinner on the patio.. Most days were spent laying under the trees reading and writing. Dave managed to read 2 books while I spent time aimlessly thinking about nothing but absorbing the surroundings. For someone who can go 5 days without seeing sunlight this isn’t something to be taken lightly, but rather something to be grateful for. Maui Bay was left once for a sailing trip to the white sandy beaches of Bounty Island. The freedom of snorkelling with the sharks, swimming and sunbathing perfected the sail back to the mainland. Three Fijian boys singing away with their guitars complemented the peaceful sails flapping in the wind but nothing could beat that sensation of a yacht’s bow piercing open ocean.

Fiji is an interesting and in some ways, diverse place. Local Fijians reside in small villages, some with no doors or windows and uphold a strong village culture. Yet, in the towns the Indians run stores with wire grills over every window. Even the hot bread shop has a small window cut into the grill for serving purposes making it obvious they were concerned about being robbed by locals. We really didn’t venture out much from our island hideaway so didn’t get to immerse ourselves in the Fijian culture which was a shame. Welcomed was what we felt; “BULA, BULA” at every encounter. I was pleasantly surprised with how many kiwi biscuits and ice blocks they had on offer, albeit devastated when I couldn’t gorge on a packet of 100s and 1000s due to the ant ‘epidemic’ that Fiji seems to have. But heck, if this is the only thing…

The coral coastline is just as it should be, crystal clear with dark coral emphasising the turquoise water. There really is such a thing as island time. Fijians really do have family singalongs while kids play in the overhanging trees beside the sea. Fiji exceeded expectations but more importantly, it was the perfect place to reset, together, find my smile again and energise for the next chapter.

 

The Harvard Experience


A Nerd’s Disneyland

Envisaging Harvard in a university-esk setting would be excusable, but campus wasn’t like that at all. If you can imagine Disneyland for nerds, that is probably a better comparison. Harvard University sprawls across the suburb of Cambridge, just across the river from the city of Boston. The beautiful old brick, Georgian and Federal architecture makes every building, on every street grand. I don’t think words could do the architecture justice; the history and all-encompassing atmosphere make for the realisation that “this is Harvard”. To give you an idea about the size of Cambridge, my dorm was one block from the Charles river which was about 20min walk from my classroom each day.

I stayed in Quincy House, one of 14 houses located in Cambridge, complete with our own house flag and shield. Although they are houses, a complex would be a better description as each house-complex has 4+ houses and a green square in the middle – with a hammock that made me very happy (Mum, I told you I could relax!).

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Quincy House

Most houses have dining halls and a 3 meal a day cafeteria with an exceptional selection of food, albeit a bit repetitive after 45 meals! The lower level of the dining hall has fuse ball, ping-pong and pool tables and during the World Cup a projector was hung in the dining hall. Hogwarts style dining tables were where the most fascinating conversations happened because there were hundreds of students studying varying courses. The entrepreneur in me wanted to set up a course registration in the dining hall. At breakfast, I wanted to sign up for a creative thinking course, at lunch a negotiation course and by dinner I was on to English literature.

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Dining Hall

To my surprise I had my own room in a dorm that had 4 rooms and a lounge room – seems as though bunk beds were in only the movies; how I was looking forward to that! I loved staying on campus but if I was to do this again, I’d save the money and stay in Airbnb in the Cambridge vicinity. Although, I would miss out on weekly, study break – pizza nights hosted by proctors and the dorm parties. A dorm party constitutes “a gathering of 10 people or more”. On one Saturday evening, I thought I was super cool by receiving an under-the-door invite to a “dorm party”, sadly that novelty wore off when I realised I was one of about 60 people crammed into the tiny dorm common area with no aircon – I lasted 20 mins – although I wasn’t cool, it was cool! The summer heat aside, the dorm experience was brilliant.

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I am going to a PARTY! (for 20mins!)

The geek in me loved finding a new place to study each day. My favourite was the oldest part of Harvard, The Harvard Yard, 1636est. Known for the cross roads of Cambridge, the 22acres of lush grass makes for an inspirational place for reading on the coloured chairs under the canopy of mature trees.

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Harvard Yard

Underneath that lawn are the Widener Stacks: ten levels deep, 92km of shelves, 8km of aisles stacked with millions of books in 100 languages. It’s very scary going down there by yourself, you’d want to bring courage, a compass and a sandwich. I befriended a stranger in the form of a stray librarian, as you do deep below the ground (Don’t tell Dad) and went on a tour – I live to tell the story.
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The bridge the connects HBS to the University

Widener is particularly fascinating as only students can go inside. Without sounding like a Disneyland snob, it doesn’t take too long before getting sick of being in the middle of the tourist attraction inside of Harvard. Circulating tour groups are common and not conducive to studying so I did appreciate the student only facilities, such as the Winder Library, which was donated by a former student’s mum after her son sunk with the titanic and she gifted this building, his book collection and a perfect Gutenberg Bible –  $25 million worth on display for only students to take selfies with.

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Further up the staircase, leads students up to the quintessential reading room under a curved ceiling.
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1) Widener Library and 2) HBS Baker Library 

I also studied in the Harvard Business School, Baker Library, across the river. Unlike Harvard University, HBS is quiet and tourist free with giant trees shadowing the perfectly manicured grounds. There are 12 Grad schools at Harvard (I.e Law, Medical, Divinity, Business etc). No visit to Disneyland would be complete, without a visit to the apparel shop. Building after building, three stories high are where students and tourists alike can buy H Branded attire, from Harvard pillows, blankets, oven-mitts, varieties of sweatshirts, tee-shirts, pens and hats. I refuse to admit how much I bought – all I ask is that my friends don’t judge me when I come home looking like I’ve just jumped out of the pages of an ivy league flyer! Obviously, the ovenmitt remained on the shelf!

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Like the libraries, there’s dozen of museums free for students. Sadly, I went kayaking, mountain hiking and to the beach on the weekends so didn’t enjoy museums as much as I should have – with the exception of visiting original Van Goughs and Picassos at the Art Museum and about 100,000 rocks..

Students also get access to frequent workshops and seminars. I felt as if I really got my money’s worth going to these free events with brilliant Harvard professors. Time only allowed for  three sessions: 1) The Power of Being Purpose Driven, 2) Tips for Effective Presentations, 3) Resilient and Practical Communication Skills.

After a special Leadership Coaching one afternoon, we were invited to a wine and cheese networking event at the Harvard Club. The Harvard Club is an exclusive club for alumni to host dinner parties, cocktail functions and private meetings and for summer school students, it’s an opportunity to feel inspired and dream about life as a full time Harvard Student. Let me tell you, the Summer School Students took enough LinkedIn Headshots to last a lifetime – I did, however, resist buying the Harvard Club dressing gown (#goodwife)

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The Leadership Course and the chicken

The course structure wasn’t at all what I was expecting. You’d expect that in the home of the Harvard Business Review, the HBR case studies would be what we would study. I was rather surprised, this wasn’t discussed once, neither was traditional leadership case studies. Our leadership course content focused on 17th Century literature, Shakespeare, Warren Buffet, a catered movie evening, YouTube clips on sports stars, and a heck of a lot of political debate! Politics, because my Professor was on the Obama campaign for both terms. It was quite refreshing learning through different approaches, it was almost like they were trying to prove the point that learning leadership can be found all around us. I wasn’t, however expecting Trump and Kim Kardashian as case studies, nor my professor turning the classroom into a Shakespearean play! My professor should have been a Broadway actor, so theatrical that each year he visits Harvard, random people come and sit in his class or join in for the lunches he has with us in the cafeteria. Interestingly, he was a lawyer from Yale. It was there he met most of our guest speakers. Considering Harvard’s endowment is at $35.7 billion, you’d think they would have a budget for speakers but Summer School doesn’t which made a lot more sense as to why people go to certain schools purely for connections. It sounds silly, but one of the speakers, a neuroscientist (plus about 5 other things after his name) explained that one of the largest American boards was created based on connections through educational institutions. With that in mind, most of the Professor’s guest speakers were his contacts from Yale.

  • General Council, Buzz Feed
  • chief of staff for renowned politicking, with a message to aspiring leaders – be likeable, trustworthy and competent – the first two take priority, the third you can learn
  • A network scientist – explained the correlation  between brain size and network size.
  • A charisma coach, hired by Google, Barkley and other global firms. She was the only one who skyped rather than joined us in person. An astonishingly vibrant, larger than life lady that joined us from her farm with her pet chicken. As vivid as she was, if I was Google, I would feel like she’d be a priceless advisor.

A few of my favourite learnings:

We had one group assignment, a 30 minute presentation, a daily blog and a exam paper on our new leadership philosophy. I liked the blog posts because they were very self-expressive about our learning and experience. Daily, we had to comment on our peer’s blogs, so the more luring the title, the more likely you’ll get a comment added to your blog! (I have downloaded copies, message me if you wanted to read them). A highlight of the course was getting my blog selected for class discussion. Here’s a few things I have learnt:

  • Adapting charismatic and technocratic leadership dependent on situational context
  • Understanding my values, and ensuring the consistency between appearance and reality.
  • The ‘need’ and ‘know how’ to create leadership, project and maintain reputation.
  • Leadership, done well, is a bloody hard work.
  • The social responsibility of leadership
  • The need to cultivate weak network ties as much as strong ties
  • The concept of the coin of the realm, knowing what drives power in your organisation
  • The value of listening, being likeable and leading with integrity
  • The power of having purpose driven employees, to drive efficiency  – 4.59% of Harvard Collage applicants are accepted each year, of the 50,000 that apply, those that have purpose are granted approval

The People – cofounder of Harvard’s latest “society”

A typical school day comprises of blog posts in the morning, prereading (a lot) for the evening class, periodic small group meeting debates and then class from 18:30 – 21:30. From 2200 onwards would be the only time of the day when we weren’t studying so a secret society was formed between a few of us that wanted to keep the learning going. It began as a bit of a joke (and still is) when we saw the need for likeminded people to get together and bounce ideas from class, share life experiences and raise heated topics for discussion. A few days into it, it began to expediential grow. Creating a following is pretty cool when you look up and realise you are meeting nightly with fascinating, intelligent individuals.

It isn’t often that opportunities arise where people have the time to focus on learning and socialising on a global level. For context, our class represented  a whopping 70 counties and 29 nationalities with varying backgrounds who I can now call mentors and friends.

Many were on their holidays, coming to learn for the sake of learning but being relentlessly driven was their common trait. Living, socialising, learning, and sightseeing with people for all but 5 hours a day (sleep time) makes you become immediately close. Celebrating Independence Day at our classmates house was a highlight, followed by Bostonian fireworks.

Did it live up to the Harvard Brand?

For three weeks, I was awake for 19hours per day as I just didn’t want to go so sleep as there was so much to learn and enjoy. A Harvard Experience exceeds the world class teaching in a world class institute, it’s the global exposure to array of diverse talent. The reality of what I had been exposed to hit home on the last night. Our final class was a potluck dinner in class with 29 national cuisines, before leaving the class at 9pm for a impromptu field trip. We arrived at Harvard Yard, with only the moon shining through the trees to pave the way. The beautiful Widener Library hovering over us and the staircase becomes our classroom for the last lecture. Like every other lecture we listened intently to a theatrical professor engagingly taking us through the final readings. With the Harvard Yard as the Professor’s backdrop, he had one message for us. Go forth and make a change in the world, challenge the status quo, make decisions with integrity and do good in the world. You can’t really put words to such an experience, but surrounded by 70 highly driven professionals on a global stage, at that moment it actually felt like anything was possible.

It felt like only yesterday when I apprehensively walked under the “Learn to Change the World” sign at the ID card office, and now it’s time to leave, but I’m ready to see Dave and the team again – the people I am thankful for, for allowing me the privilege of briefly pausing life.

Life at Harvard felt like living in a little bubble, an incubator think-tank filled with remarkable humans. When our time is up, we pop out the other side far more openminded about what leadership means and the impact it can have on the world and the wonderful people we share it with everyday.

 

 

 

 

 

Overlanding though Thailand, Laos and Myanmar plus a dip in the Maldives

Sabaidee!

For those that have followed my blog for the last few years, you’ll notice it now looks very different than previously. Travelpod has shut down, and I haven’t yet learnt how to make this fancy new site visually appealing, or how to quickly upload all the photos from the last few years. Nevertheless, here we are.

To set the scene for our departure day, Dave rang me at work the afternoon we left asking why I wasn’t at home yet. I’d mistaken the departure time, so it was once again a mad peddle home and straight into a taxi for the airport. There’s a lot to be said for taking a day off before holidays and easing into it, but that doesn’t quite fit the Morton way of life. We nearly received a free business class seat upgrade on the way to Hong Kong, but they realised they’d made a mistake when I showed a little too much happiness and gratitude on receiving the single digit boarding passes.

Needless to say, the first day in the big smoke was spent sleeping. Having visited Hong Kong before, we opted for a walk across Lamma island, in 35 degree heat, to a quaint fishing village for lunch.

We were thankful that in a city of 7.3 million we could continue our day in sweaty backpacking attire without running into anyone. Until, that is, we bumped into Dave’s old work colleague, who took us out for dinner in a trendy part of town.

Two nights in Hong Kong was long enough so we decided to leave early for Bangkok.

On day three of our month long backpacking adventure, we were overwhelmed by Asia’s biggest discount mall. An eight hour, 15,000 step shopping spree left Dave with a new, tailored suit crammed into a backpack for the next 4 weeks.

Our recorded footsteps within theshopping centre! (Above)

A few days of aimless relaxing was enough before our overland adventure began. Eleven like minded, well travelled adventurers, aged between 25-55, set off from Bangkok together. ‘Instant friends’, who have travelled to 114 countries between us, came from varying backgrounds but are united in a love of travel.

After a boat trip up the Bangkok waterways, we boarded the 13 hour overnight sleeper train to Chiang Mai (Translates to New City). Interestingly, all of us had already done the Vietnamese sleeper trains so felt quite at home in this second class paradise – even with the bright yellow curtains and the lights left on which made the beds glow!

The first activity I voluntarily participated in was a Thai cooking school with a pint sized instructor named ‘little Noodle’ – both statements in this sentence really are true. The adventure started by shopping for ingredients in the local market for the 6 courses. Dave and I did different dishes in the hope that we would have double the amount of dishes ‘we’ could cook when we return home – one word in this sentence is false. Randomly, a fellow student chef gave me instructions for baking cakes in mugs in the microwave – true?

Rolling out of the kitchen and onto the road we began the next activity; a cycling tour around Chiang Mai. The 35km / 35 degree ride included a few unique ‘tourist hotspots’ in the surrounding villages and countryside, specifically, an old leprosy colony, a lychee farm and an outdoor Buddhists Crematorium. The circle of life is always fascinating in these countries but becomes confronting very quickly when looking too closely.

Chiang Mai’s last activity left an impression; a massage parlour offering traditional Thai services as part of a rehabilitation program for current and ex prisoners. No visit to Thailand would be complete without a visit to a temple. Of the 30,000 temples, we can tick off 4, including a temple on a mountain, a silver male only temple, a white temple and a temple that had hundreds of Buddhas in different poses. That’s 8 hours nicely packaged up into a few words…

It’s now Monday morning and we have entered Laos.

As soon as we crossed the border the tempo changed immediately, and a sense of excitement became apparent – Dave celebrated with a $1 cutthroat shave in the back streets.

Laos; the reason we are all here in Asia, is a communist country with a much simpler way of life. Our mode of transport for 350km was a traditional 30m long boat down the the Mekong river. To give you an idea about the distance we travelled over two days; our starting point was Far East on the Thai border and we travelled west through the Mekong until we were smack bang in the middle of the country.

At first glance the brown surging river flows for miles with limited human life. Every now and again a little village of flax huts dotted on the foreshore can be spotted with children playing in the water, or a fisherman with a bamboo rod balancing on a rock or elephants bathing with the locals. Occasionally, the peace of the river is disrupted by a long speeding canoe ‘thing’ zooming by, with the driver wearing a motorcycle helmet for protection. An odd smell lingered and suddenly a VERY dead body unexpectedly floated by. It was likely to be a villager whose hut fell down in a mudslide, quite visibly some time ago. After a few hours, we pulled up to a tiny village of 35 people living in 5 huts.

Grubby, smiley, content little people who want nothing more than to be kids played in the mud, greeting us with outstretched arms. Intrepid Travel doesn’t stop very often, to ensure the people aren’t financially reliant on outside donations. (Intrepid also practices responsible tourism by not using plastic bags and eating and staying at locally owned restaurants and hotels). This village is miles away from anywhere and only accessible by water so we were thankful to meet a civilisation not corrupted by city life. Tiny little hands guided us through with laughter and broken Lao and English. At 245m above sea level, it’s a majestic feeling to be floating down the Mekong; clouds weaving through the layers in the forests and touching the foreshore.

Our midway overnight stop was in a guesthouse where we had local food and visited the produce market. An open mind for ‘cultural diversity’ is required here as some scenes are too horrific to write about, so I’ll just mention that there were imported New Zealand apples, and post you a photo of some random street food.

The following day, the current pushed us along for another 7 hours until we reached Luang Prabang with only a stop at a hillside cave/ temple and 4,000 statues of Buddha from the 15th century. While we’re on the Buddhist topic I’ll mention that at 5am in Luang Prabang we participated in the Giving of Alms.

For centuries, Buddhist monks have been receiving all their food from donations to be eaten before midday. Monks join the temple as early as 13 years old but they aren’t forced to stay. Local, poorer villagers send their children for free education, housing and food. Locals donate food as they believe they’re feeding their ancestors through the monks. Really, it’s a win-win situation for all! As the sun was rising, and despite the rain, 5 groups of monks came to receive sticky rice from our little stalls. Lesson for young players: it’s all about portion control, I only fed 4 groups / 40 monks out of 50.

Dubbed as ‘Asia’s most preserved UNESCO town’, Luang Prabang is a beautiful, French colonial town with a variety of activities to engage in, starting with a visit to the bear rescue centre and a swim in the stunning 3 tier waterfall.

Not only is this town architecturally beautiful and complete with fantastic French bakeries, I was pleasantly surprised to see another city practicing responsible tourism. Tourism here opposes elephant riding but promotes numerous ‘sudo drop in centres’ set up for tourists to teach the local village children English.

You would have known I was telling you porkies if had I told you that I attended the 7 hour Lao cooking class and produce market expedition with Dave and our tour group. Although he throughly enjoyed it, there was no hiding the fact he spent 7 hours cooking – hell on earth, as you can tell by the photos…

Dave’s day out

Julia’s day out

Determined to do something for the community, I nervously ventured out on my own for a day and a half and attended two drop in centres. Billy, a 17 year old from a countryside village spent a few hours teaching me how to complete a Rubik’s cube while practicing his English. @ My Library is set up to provide an environment for creative thinking through playing games. The Big Brother Mouse (BBM) foundation was the second place I visited. Kids come from regional areas in the hope that tourists will visit this centre so they can practice reading, writing and speaking English. To put some context around this, the situation for both child and tourist is to literally walk in and start a conversation. Thirty willing kids were crammed into a brightly coloured room, but sadly only 4 tourists were ready to help. Surprisingly, after two to three years at BBM some kids leave speaking better English than collage graduates, which is a pipe dream for most. In a 2 hour unstructured chat with 5 teenage boys, let me tell you, we covered a lot of ground. The highlights included:

– curiosity as to whether men can marry men in my country and a conversation around men having multiple wives. Had Australia legalised gay marriage, it would have made for a much easier conversation as to why New Zealand was legalised but Australia wasn’t!
– a rendition of Maori history, which I’m so glad no Kiwis were listening to, while I answered their many questions about Maui and the fish hook!
– they were fascinated with how money was sent/ transferred between people. Without bank accounts, Lao people send money via post and have a secret password between recipient and ‘postman’
– a discussion about what they wanted, when they are older. Their answers startled me. Remember that Lao GDP is USD 1,400, and that many haven’t been across the river to a neighbouring village ($1 boat trip). Many dream of one day doing a return trip to Bangkok ($150) but this non essential luxury would take them 10 years to save for. Their clear hope for the future was “happiness”. I asked what would give them that and surprisingly, they wanted the “long term sort” of happiness that a happy, healthy family brings , not the “short term sort” provided by mobile phones and money. Quite impressive for kids who are living on a few dollars a day and walking many hours from their villages to come to lessons. The Big Brother Mouse is more than a place for kids to practice their English with tourists for a few hours a day. This NGO is creating a way to teach children to read, which is not common in this poor nation to the extent that outside Vientiane capital city, BBM still holds the only book publishing licence. They created the first Lao books, designed their own fonts (Lao Language) and designed a system to type that font. BBM has delivered 4,500 ‘book parties’ to remote villages around Laos, taught the teachers to read, and in the few years that it has been running, has increased the Lao economy. For all the bad in in this world, there’s a hell of a lot of good people out there like the American who started Big Brother Mouse.

Another wonderful project is the Friends Without A Border hospital information centre which has been set up to train locals how to provide and manage free hospital services for children. (74/1000 children won’t make it past 5 years old because of death from treatable illness) On my visit here I’ve been blown away by the kindness of people. It expands beyond financial generosity.

The boat trip to the little village across the river

My adventure continued to the village across the river, that my guide said no tourists go to. He was right. I took a private 40m long boat ($3) across to what looked like being dropped off in a remote forest. I stepped into the Mekong before walking through dense bush, through mud, over a driftwood bridge where I arrived at a one lane street and started walking to the village – a village that was so small I passed through without realising. With 3 hours to kill before the boat came and collected me, in a village with no restaurants or places to sit, I opted for a hair wash in a tin shed, complete with sink, kitchen scissors and a rain water bucket. The 9 year old hair dresser was so good, I told her mum. Her mum then invited me into her house for a massage. I lay on her floor while her 6 kids lay on the ground with me. The 6 year old was playing with his truck at my feet, the 5 year old was laying face to face exploring my white-person features while the 8 year old played with my unshaven leg hair! I couldn’t finish this priceless experience until the kids had chosen a fluorescent nail varnish and I had French braided their hair. In total, $7 plus a $7 tip.

My final adventure was to a local weaving handicraft class. An hour into the 2.5 hour session, I had a numb bottom and sore back so I outsourced my woven black strap to the teacher and ran an English class for the local, trainee shop assistants. Leaving Luang Prabang knowing that a dozen children now have an increased vocabulary was a priceless experience. Some words I included in their vocabulary were left, right, once, twice, the concept of synonyms and antonyms, colours and how to ask for help diagnosing an illness. Overall, I was pleasantly surprised to see a town practicing responsible tourism emphasised by opposing elephant rides but promoting numerous free options for tourists to help kids grow. In the one third of the world we’ve been to, I’ve never been to a nation so willing to learn.

Seven hours and 300km of, up in the clouds, super windy roads later, we arrived in VangVieng.

First impressions left us disengaged with the first Lao town converted into a ‘tourism adventure capital’. Determined not to let spirits be dampened, Dave booked our group on our own private outdoor excursion, kicking off with an 8am swim in the Blue Lagoon natural swimming hole then onto the world famous Lao Tubing down the Noumsong river. Previously this activity had the fatal reputation of drunken idiots banging their heads on the rocks after heavy consumption at the river bars – ‘idiot proofing’ has since improved the town’s safety reputation. I genuinely don’t understand why you’d want to be anything but connected to what was a truly memorable, meditative experience. For hours, face up, we floated down and around the winding river, wrapped with forest. Towering above, the sheer mountain cliff faces overshadowed our tiny existence. Saffron-robed Monks discreetly dipped among the river-grass and village children carelessly played in the current, while we stopped only for a riverside BBQ lunch and caving expedition. Deep inside the cavern, the tubes floated while we pulled ourselves along until we banged into the clay-made stairway leading up, and in. With our headlights mounted, we walked further into this gigantic pitch-black cave, that once sheltered hundreds of villagers during the war. At times there were bats, at times we waded through water and at times we were on our hands and knees, crawling through, holding onto the stalactites above and squeezing through cracks between the ‘cave rooms’, until we reached daylight. I’m pleased to report my diamonds remain intact, albeit splattered in mud and their owner loved every moment.

 

A game of riverside volleyball – below

Ending a truly magnificent day, the All Blacks beat the Wallabies and Dave and I stood proudly amongst random Kiwis painted in our national colours. Sadly, I missed out on the rugby sweepstake, and a massive 100,000kip that could have paid for this sublime day out – 15 priceless dollars.

Intrepid automatically donated part of our tour cost to the COPE foundation (which we visited), set up to combat U.S landmines currently killing the Lao people. Laos remains the most heavily bombed country in the world, per capita, in history. During the Vietnam war, 270 million bombs dropped, equating to 1 every 8 minutes, 24 hours a day for 9 years. 30% or 80 million failed to detonate during the war. A heartbreaking 25% of Lao villages in all provinces are still littered with unexploded bombs, including 41 of the 46 poorest districts. This is a major problem killing 100 Lao people per year. Village kids make up 40% of victims, as they hunt for bombs which can be sold on the illegal scrap-metal market for $20, feeding a family for a month. Yes, that is a lot of ‘statistics’ and ‘numbers’ but it became very real after seeing the emotion in our local guide’s eyes when he was recollecting a story about lost family members. I remember thinking, after visiting the Cambodian Killing Fields, how does our society let this happen? Once again we learnt that the bombing in Laos between 1964-1973 was known as the ‘Secret War’ and was blatantly hidden and lied about for the 9 year duration. Another three died last week, and based on statistics, that will happen every week, week after week, as children try to feed their families and farmers plough their rice fields. This may sound dramatic, but in the West, we just don’t understand. Personally, I remember ignorantly looking at at a map and trying to understand why the tours only went to the same destinations and cities leaving most of the country unexplored.

Why we love travelling, particularly overland, is having the opportunity to meet the people, hear their stories and live through their eyes. Often the countries which give the biggest impact are the ones that leave you feeling torn as to which cause is the most important to give to, or maybe a bit for each is better, I don’t know.

Although we have sacrifices, challenges, hard work and compromise in our lives, I can’t help but think how lucky we are to flit around the world, have our health and good education – paradoxically I also can’t help but think how lucky they are. Laos, one of the world’s poorest nations, some would presume they have the least, but in many ways, they actually have the most. Remove electricity and “short term happiness”, add Buddhism, respect, kindness, time for family, and in turn you get a nation of thankful, happy, kind and welcoming Lao people, who are simply after, “long term happiness”.

Farewell Laos and, kwap jai lie lie to the Lao people.

Precisely three days before our international departure from Laos, we decided the next leg of the adventure was to be Myanmar (You can imagine how stressed this control freak was by leaving visas to the last minute). Why Myanmar? We based that decision purely on the fact that a well travelled Intrepid traveller advised us Myanmar was her favourite country and that she has remained in contact with Lae, her freelance tour guide. Our fascination with Myanmar stems from knowing that the traditional culture still remains to the forefront of everyday life. Tourist visas have only become easily accessible since Myanmar’s independence and the fall of the military government 7 years ago. Even now, tourism isn’t as prominent as elsewhere in Asia, particularly in the wet season. This fact was reinforced by the 60 seater prop-aeroplane trip and the first of four stops on our whirlwind 6 night cross-country visit with Lae. Of the SEVEN passengers, Dave and I were the only tourists. The crew to customer ratio, 5:7, reinforced the excellent customer service, to the extent that our luggage in Bagan regional airport was carried off the plane, through the airport and into the taxi by the ground handlers. I suspect this is normal for a regional airline despite the fact I felt like a VIP carrying my bouquet of flowers from Lae.

Bagan is famous for hot air ballooning over this unique landscape. Alternatively, poor people, like us, experience the beauty through $2 bike riding tours. Hundreds of kilometres of lush bush are scattered with mud roads weaving among the 2,000 pagodas and temples. Now picture this, climbing to the top of a pagoda and only seeing a uniform green landscape for miles, no restaurants, no hotels no buildings. The temples are different to any in Asia, reminding me of giant cathedrals with their tall ceilings and 11th century art work and beautiful Buddhist images. Some are only visible by flashlight and  each has  their own fascinating story. It’s only been 7 years since the democratic revolution, and come the end of 2017,  the impacts of an increase in tourism will be felt by locals (and tourists) who will no longer be able to enter or climb these 11th, 12th, 13th century places of worship. Sadly, UNESCO doesn’t recognise Bagan due to the military adding gold ‘umbrellas’ to the historic stupas, therefore, 50% of the original 4,000 pagodas have been destroyed by inadequate restoration. Private donations cover basic costs and volunteers undertake the cleaning – including the temple at the top of Mount Popa perched on the side of a volcano that we climbed 770 steps barefoot to visit.

Bagan: bike ridding, temples and boat trip

Above: Mt Popa

Below: trek through Kalaw

Our two tweaks to the itinerary included a Bagan local boat trip at sunset and a mountain trek to visit the Kalaw hill tribes, 4,200 feet above sea-level. The 6 hour guided trek weaved through thousands of fruit, spice, tea, coffee and vegetable plantations in the mountains. Continuing overland, Inle (Inlay) Lake was our third destination where we spent 8 hours on a 22m long boat visiting Asia’s very own Venice. Inle is a 116km2 lake, housing man made dirt patches predominantly filled with floating vegetable plantations secured by bamboo. Primary aged kids row their canoes full of the neighbours kids to school, while their fathers use their legs to row into the lake to fish with hand nets and mothers sell produce in the floating markets. Winding waterways lead to patches of land with 1,000 ancient stupas while post offices, petrol stations, handicrafts, boat builders and blacksmith shops  stand on stilts in the water. Dave watched his new $20 kitchen knife set being handmade by a family of blacksmiths – below

Rounding off our overland tour was  the former capital, Yangon, for what should have been a walking tour. Monsoonal downpours, common for this part of the world, meant walking was replaced with driving to the hotspots, including the 65m reclining Buddha and the Shwedagon Pagodas, covered in 60 tonnes of gold. In today’s money, the gold is worth $8b. Remarkably, donations keep the reapplication of gold every 5 years viable. A good investment if the price of gold increases.

Petrol station (above), post office (below)

Throughout the 7 states, there are numerous minority tribes, with the majority being Burmese. Each tribe follows their own traditions, with different dialects and clothing; all black attire, orange headpieces and long-necked woman with brass rings distinguishing their ethnicity. Although some villages prevent minority tribes living within their village, what remains uniform is the children’s innocent, playful nature. Stopping in one villages to sing the English alphabet together has the same reaction in the next where we all counted to ten. All kids, in all villages, wave or smile while screaming ‘ingle’ (English white person) or what translates to “the English are coming”. Let me just tell you, it’s pretty adorable when 3 year old twins call out their only known English word.

I vaguely remember watching ‘some lady’s’ release from permanent exile on TV many years ago, but unbeknown to me at the time, many years later we would be in a country spending time with the kids of the next generation who will only know a country without fear of prosecution and freedom of speech. (For most of the country) That lady, a Nobel peace prize winner, was Aung San Suu Kyi who helped bring freedom from fear and led the overturn of the Myanmar military government. Albeit an oversimplification, an example of what democracy means for the people is the change in price of a phone SIM card. In 2003 it cost $2,000, in 2005 it was $1,600 and since the democratic revolution a few years ago, the price for communication has been reduced to $1.50. Power often drops out in smaller towns, and little villages are completely without, so mobile devices will open the country up for business and help make money for families.

In many ways, Myanmar feels so different to many of the Asian countries. With a language originating from Tibet, food with an Indian influence and a countryside as green as New Zealand. It’s a fascinating country, a nation still following traditions in the everyday way of life. Children and woman all use ground thanika (tree branch) and water as make up and sunscreen, different villages have their different ways of serving food, and the majority of the men and woman wear longyis (similar to a lava lava) everyday. Cows and carts are used as transportation, farming and for daily routines such as grinding the oil from peanuts which continues to remain part of every day life.

Locals bathe and launder in the rivers. The roads are repaired by men scooping tar from buckets and running along the road  pouring it out wearing thongs/jandles/flip flops/double pluggers – whatever you want to call them. That’s not the safest footwear, but the only option for workers getting paid a few dollars a day.

Grounding peanut oil (above) and thanika, traditional make up (below)

Myanmar exceeded expectations and we’re both thankful having now visited a country with so much hope for prosperity. Lae did her country proud. It’s a proud nation, with so much culture, history and such welcoming people. Our pint size private guide, who has a heart of gold and boundless energy ensured we got everything we wanted out of the trip. An outstanding trip considering we (we all know that means Julia) wanted to see 4 destinations in 5.5days, with only one instruction: “local experience”. We now leave with a lifetime of memories and new Myanmar friends. Lae, ‘chay-tzoo-beh’; thank you for opening your heart and sharing your country through your eyes.

Week 4, the final week.

I was a little paranoid about going back to work next week and pretending this had been a relaxing break ie. relaxing in the truest sense. To combat that risk, the only option was to book a trip to the Maldives – pronounced mal-divs (not dive). Maldives, because 5 years ago, when we were planning our honeymoon, I spent a solid week (unsuccessfully) ‘negotiating’ with our very patient travel agent and friend, Danielle, as to how we could incorporate this trip into a non-flexible RTW ticket. So, when I saw heavily discounted international flights from KL/Male/KL/Goldie, I pounced; sadly not realising that the majority of the Maldive islands have mandatory, overpriced seaplane transfers. Twenty hours of researching alternatives and determined to stay within the ‘holiday budget’ balanced against the Maldive experience, we found a boat transfer to one of the Northern Atolls, and stayed in an all-inclusive overwater villa.

The international airport, on its own island, is fascinating in its own right; hotel and private launches drive right up to the airport’s jetty – their version of an über collection point.

The cheap AirAsia flights arrive/depart at night so we stayed the first night on the main island of Male. In the hope that we could buy snorkelling gear before heading over, we were shocked at island prices of $100+ for a mask and snorkel. We decided to rent them. As we’re nearly out of sunscreen ($45), now I’m slightly wishing I didn’t donate my hat to the hill-tribes in Myanmar!

reception (below)

Normally, our accommodation tends to be the cheapest in the city, so going from a two star to a five star was quite the shock. Our head butler, Vivek welcomed us to Adaaran then quickly buggied us away from the other main check-in reception (which I thought was super fancy, with its sandy floors), to the exclusive ocean-villa reception perched overwater at the end of the 500m pier. We hadn’t even arrived at our room and Dave had to shut my jaw, which was left, unknowingly, hanging. You can only imagine the reaction when our butler opened the front door to 180 degrees of ocean, with a staircase from the day bed to the sea. The word “private” is the best way to describe this. Dave surprised me with a prearranged ‘please surprise the wife, welcome’ of champagne, flowers and fruit on arrival and their preferred water-villa with a sunset outlook and far away from the foreshore. Heck, I was just stoked to have a buggy service – it was a little OTT for this wee backpacker!

This island has something for everyone; 1km long and discreetly segregated into different demographics and interests. For example, one coastline has an epic wave break for the surfers, and is complete with its own ‘surfers only’ beach chalets, surf racks, beachside cafe and bar, surf office, a medical centre and a daily boat to another reef. The further around the island we walked, there were hidden restaurants and beach bars, garden villas and beach villas and numerous protected white sandy beaches for the ideal snorkelling with the prerequisite plethora of tropical fish.

“Relaxing” doesn’t make for good blogging, so I’ll summarise the repetitive ‘day in the life’: Dave, my barista, delivers a coffee in bed, followed by a snorkel from the doorstep. Off to breakfast, beach, another snorkel, then lunch, then pool bar, afternoon on the villa’s day beds until sunset with a snorkel at dusk as it’s the best time to see the eagle rays and non-human-eating 1m reef sharks. The day is then finished off with a cocktail at the villa’s sunset bar then to dinner and buggy back to the room. We found things to celebrate, such as Uni results and our 10 year anniversary (was actually 9 years but 10 made for an excuse to get free cake – which is just what you need on an all inclusive, 20 meals a day vacation!) Dave asked me today if I was actually relaxed or just the ‘tick, done it kind of relaxed’. Let’s just say I have nothing more to write about so it’s time to push publish. I’m well and truly reset and ready to come home. We both are.

Dave and the meditating bird – above, not below 🙂

In summary, the Maldives is obviously something pretty special but if you pull apart what made it special, it was because we had 5 days of isolation. Just Dave and I, in our own little part of paradise, completely private from the rest of the world. For that reason, the water villa was a winner. Today is Thursday and tomorrow evening we start the two overnight flights home with a day ‘hop-on-hop-offing’ around Kuala Lumper in between.

Four weeks, two days and six countries after it began, we’ll be home for Father’s Day family lunch followed by a special dinner with our close friends. What better way to wrap up one heck of an adventure before work on Monday.

At the end of any holiday, the first thing we get asked is “what was the best part” – I hope you can tell from my writing that it was as follows: floating and boating down the Mekong, spending time with the Lao and Myanmar children, cooking together in Chiang Mai and meeting the hundreds of locals who will be forever ingrained in our memories. Had we come straight to the Maldives, I don’t think we would have truly appreciated the exclusivity that this part of paradise represents.

Above all, time together, just hanging out with my best mate.

Words or images can’t really capture “time”.

Deliberate, Extravagant, Culturally Enriched

 

Deliberate, Extravagant, Culturally Enriched
Dubai, United Arab Emirates

 

Dubai, United Arab Emirates

My favourite part of travelling is walking out of the hotel on day one, with an empty mind, not knowing anything about that destination, and knowing that when you walk back through the doors that night, your mind is filled with knowledge, culture, experiences and memories. Dubai, especially offered us that, as all I knew was:
1. There’s a desert so there would be camels and I like camels, so I knew I’d love it,
2. There are two carriers, Emirates and Etihad.
3. Dubai is a world hub due to its central location and tax-free benefits
4. There are Sheikhs. I assumed this meant royalty
5. Falcons fly business class.

Four days later, I am pleased to report my mind is buzzing from this unique part of the world. This city stood out on the world stage for three reasons. Let me indulge you, in the world that is Dubai, United Arab Emirates.

1. DELIBERATE – A town planner’s dream

Imagine this, ten years ago Dubai was nothing more than a desert with a couple of skyscrapers, and is now transformed into a global icon. As a tourist in awe, it felt like the town planner had grabbed a crayon and drawn out the perfect, no expenses spared city on blank canvas. With money no object, this is what they came up with:

Dubai seemed like a ‘long city’ that runs for 74km parallel to the ocean, with a perfectly straight 12 lane arterial smack bang down the middle. Alongside, is the world’s longest driverless metro with connecting bridges providing access directly into the malls. Dave and I stayed out of the main tourist area, mainly because we are tight ***** but with the added benefit that we stayed on the creek (river), next to one of my favourite places within the old city, as opposed to the new. The old Dubai is scattered with traditional markets, known as souks. With two hours sleep to our name, we went exploring. Firstly, the textile souk (“oh o”) but Dave was pleased when I only came away with one scarf! The “oh o” actually came from me this trip as Dave ‘struck gold’ with his purchases – four suits, two shirts and three ties for $400 AUD, but no gold. He can now finally go to his weekly work functions without wearing mismatched op shop suits.

Just beyond the textile souk are the wharves where the locals catch these old traditional boats for .40c a trip. To further explore the waterways, we took a private tour all the way down to the retractable, floating bridge that only opens after 10 pm to let the ‘cargo ships’ through, and back the other way to the mouth of the entrance to the Persian Gulf. From the water, we witnessed rickety old wooden transporters called dwals, lined up along the footpath with goods such as refrigerators and spices waiting to be taken to Africa, India and other countries within the Gulf. It’s all about timing, Dave and I were the only ones on the creek early that morning, unlike the night before, when the network was as busy as Delhi at rush hour. We could have watched the boats swirling around the current, arriving at the dock like bumper cars all day but instead, we pushed on to the Gold Souk and Spice Souk. All our senses were heightened with the sound of the Call to Prayer from the minarets that echo gracefully through the city. They are one of my favourite things about the Muslim religion. The second thing is how calm and welcoming the people are. Unlike many market places throughout the world, often with pushy and demanding attendants, we felt genuinely welcomed to come in and try all the spices, nuts, teas and saffron ‘by the bucket’ without any pressure to buy. The smell, the taste, the sound and the colours of these souks transported us back to the medinas in Morocco. The gold market, however, was as over the top as the ATMs that dispense gold bars – truly. Sadly in this visit, I couldn’t find a gold dress in my size. Can you believe it?
Ironically, Gold and money go hand in hand here, with 40% of physical gold traded in 2013 occurring in Dubai. In case you’re wondering how much that is using elephant metric, it’s 354 elephants altogether.

Back to the town planning. As dull as this topic may seem, this is what fascinated me the most. The New Dubai is like a Monopoly board with businesses segregated into different areas depending on the industry. The following suburbs are a few areas within the free zone and are exempt from paying company, import export, foreign ownership or personal tax: Media City, Health Care City, Internet City (IBM, Microsoft, etc.), Commodities Centre, and Knowledge City where the leading universities of the world are located. Although I’m not a big human-made fan, my favourite was the Financial City. I appreciated the skyscrapers in different shapes and sizes located together, most covered in shiny black glass. There was no limit to the creative juices flying within the design room with buildings that are triangular, holes within, solar panel-like structures, spheres, and when all else has already been built – build a 150-metre-high, 93-metre-wide photo frame which allows ‘people to see the old Dubai and new Dubai through a frame’ (WTF or OTT, I can’t decide). Then, when you find out that’s probably been done before, you build the world’s tallest BUILDING, the Burj Khalifa at 164 floors. Then, just to be sure you’ve covered all bases of over the top structures, you then need to start building the biggest TOWER – I’m told there’s a difference between a tower and building…

Our hop on hop off bus did a mighty fine job of touring us around the city before dropping us at the spectacular, Dubai Marina. This premier address (not post code, as the UAE doesn’t have a postal area/zip identification system) is home to the world’s tallest GROUP of buildings, with a magnificent human-made canal system wrapping it’s way through the waterfront markets, restaurants, shops and under bridges. Children’s playgrounds are under most of these bridges to protect the kids from the heat. The marina itself is lined with super yachts of all sizes: big, bigger and biggest. Many of the beaches along the coastline belong to the plenitude of private residences, luxury hotels and palaces. The poorer folk, like us, found comfort in the public beaches, albeit scattered between $100 per day for deck chairs…. come on, as if we’d pay that! We found a free entry beach club to enjoy the quintessential photo of floating in the salty Persian Gulf with skyscrapers as the backdrop. Most importantly, we had 1 hour of relaxing by the ocean followed by a 5-minute relaxing swim in the 29degree hotel pool. Chilling out for 1hr and 5 minutes this weekend, nice and relaxed….

Some people (not me) may know the UAE has the seventh-largest proven crude oil reserves in the world, but Dubai’s economy is primarily real estate and tourism. Considering Dubai was a desert a decade ago, that is pretty impressive. I was talking to a local about how the locals cope with the dry arid conditions. In pidgeon English, he said that the tap water is drinkable, but it is not advised due to the high salt content, causing his dad to have kidney failure so to avoid kidney issues during our stay we should drink bottled water. Seemed like good advice. In all seriousness, we saw the huge desalination plants up the highway and to give an idea of the scale of the plant’s output; the golf course requires 4,000,000 gallons of water a day to maintain.

2) EXTRAVAGANCE – what money can buy

When the Dubai police fleet includes a Lamborghini, Ferrari, and Bentley you know that the ‘people’s cars’ can’t be half shabby either. I don’t think our windowless bogan-mobile would stand up here. Needless to say, I’m not exactly a car guru, but I was surprised that each luxury car brand had a super-duper luxury model on offer. Brands of cars that I’d never even heard of, were built in ways I never knew existed, all parked on display outside the world’s biggest mall. Aptly named, the Dubai Mall, with 1600 high-end brands. Shopping wasn’t the only attraction on offer, with other attractions including the world’s largest aquarium (33,000 aquatic animals with opportunities for scuba diving), an Olympic-size ice skating rink, the world’s biggest retractable roof, a high end souk with Falcons, a three storey waterfall, and of course the 150m water fountain with 6000 light projectors positioned within a man-made lake. My favourite was The Village, a streetscape designed to make you feel like you’re outside with overhanging balconies and hundreds of brightly coloured umbrellas hanging head first displaying a myriad of designs. After eating lunch in ‘the jungle’ with moving creatures complete with a night sky and lightning show, we moved on to a shopping centre that has affordable products, The Mall of Emirates. Our yearly Christmas decorations were sourced next to the indoor ski resort (85m high and 85m wide) in with 22,500 square meters covered with real snow for skiing, a 400 ski run and five chairlifts. With this much to see, malls are open till midnight; with this much to pay for, so are the banks.

For Dave’s birthday we went to a 5-star hotel for a wander through the most amazing new souk – on the hunt for a golden Aladdin’s lamp for Dave – to complement the trio of gifts this year: The Porsche sunglasses and puzzle (representing ‘time’ from his wife). Designed to look like the traditional souks, it has multiple alleyways and hidden entrances. The more we kept walking, the more we found until we finally hit the grand entrance of the elaborate hotel. Embarrassingly, we stood at the concierge desk, dressed in thongs and clothes from the rugby and ever so quietly questioned whether there were ‘affordable’ dining options. Their version of affordable was different to ours, but we thanked our lucky stars that he allowed us to continue on our adventure, dressed like hobos. With a dinner voucher in hand, we headed down a few more alleyways until we hit the canals. As we waited on a park bench under the Venetian – style canopy waiting for our gondola-like boat to whisk us away to our dinner reservation, we both looked at each other with excitement and disbelief. This was the resort we had seen on a luxury destination TV show a few weeks ago. The resort spans acres of beachfront real estate and is complete with summer houses, villas and hotel rooms all designed to look like an Arabian castle lining the 2.5km of canals.

Luxury hotels need to be a little over the top here, with some seriously stiff competition. The 7-Star Burj Al Arab (the sail looking building on a man-made island) has a stunning 1,790 sq-mt. of 24-carat gold leaf covering the interior of the hotel. The Atlantis resort is built on a very creative island shaped like a palm tree. The Palm’s fronds are lined with exquisite villas. The famous Atlantis resort and aquarium aren’t actually on The Palm islands, but rather on the crown of the crescent surrounding the palm with a tunnel connecting the two. There’s already a second Palm, with plans for a third bigger and better one underway. I suppose it’s inevitable.You must keep designing and building bigger, more creative and unique creations – such as Dubai World, a theme park twice the size of Disney Land. To top it off, just off the mainland, there are 300 artificial archipelagoes of various small islands constructed in the rough shape of a world map. Most ‘countries’ are available for purchase. I get the feeling that if you had money and an idea, this would be the place to make it happen.

3) CULTURALLY DIVERSE – acceptance

I now know what ‘Emirates’ actually means, it’s more than just an airline or the third word in the country’s name. Emirates are like states, and there are 7 Emirates in the UAE! Each of the seven emirates has a capital city with the same name, each ruled by an Emir or ‘ruler’. The Emirate of Abu Dhabi accounts for 87% of the UAE’s total area but with 37% of the population, wth Dubai Emirate closely following. Quite impressively, only about 13% of the people currently living in UAE are citizens (Emirati’s) with more than half of the citizens under 25years. The rest, 87%, are foreigners. The majority are split between India, Bangladesh, Pakistan and European countries. That’s a lot of stats I know, but what I’m trying to say, in not a very simple way, is that this is a multinational nation. It works so well together, with mosques, temples and churches next to each other. While walking through the streets one morning, it was fascinating to see locals in their religious attire off in different directions towards their choice of place to worship. Many Emirati men wear their white dress-like robes with red scarfs with black crowns holding them in place on their heads. Ladies wear varieties of burkas. They’re doing something right as this is a city with a crime rate around 0%. It is completely safe, completely clean and the people are notably helpful.

The government looks after the Emerati with free education, weddings, housing and support which is great to see considering their whole country is inundated with foreigners here to enjoy the tax benefits and 50 degree temperatures. I was talking to a tour guide on the trip to the desert. To give a scale of cash, most Emeratis keep their luxury cars about a year, and with depreciation at 20% you can only imagine the money regularly changing hands. Another source of income is this clever concept: unless you’re a business within the free-zone areas, foreigners wishing to start businesses, must be sponsored by an Emeriti who would then own 51% of the business. Hence why the can buy oddly shaped luxury cars.

The same tour guide took us on our desert safari. We chose a premium product for this excursion to try and get as close to an authentic desert trip as possible. This luxury company is owned by the Royal family and took us on to their land. The 1950s open top jeeps we went out in were gifts from the British many years ago. The British had owned the land before the Emirati found oil. Sucks to be them! To encounter the desert, we decided that in the back of an open truck was the way to go. Awaiting our arrival was a camel trip, falcon show, authentic dinner under the stars and traditional dance. We ate camel as well as drunk the milk and rode them. As odd as that may seem to eat the entertainment, the camel is one of the most important animals for the Emirati, therefore common practice. Unsurprisingly, it’s Robots that take part in the multimillion dollar camel racing industry. BTW – camel doesn’t “taste like chicken”, it tastes like a lamb casserole.

Of course, I cannot forget to mention the main purpose of this trip, to take Dave to the Dubai Rugby 7s for his birthday. 12 hours of rugby with 28 nations competing over three days for the Title. Regardless of whether you were a rugby fanatic or not, this was a super cool day. Each team / country has seven players on the field, playing with two 7 minute sides with a 1 minute at half time. Some would say, that short break is hardly worth it, but such a small team and such a big field makes for a heck of a lot of running. Obviously, there are four grandstands surrounding the field, but I’d say the majority of the supporters were in our stand – the stand with the shade which was much needed as this rugby field is located in the desert under the hot, dry Arabian sun. What also makes this different to the traditional rugby games, is that you’re surrounded by hundreds of nationalities, supporting multiple teams. How can you not? It’d be daft to come all the way from Australia to watch a 14-minute game! New Zealand played once against Australia and once against South Africa which was quite the hoot as we were the only Kiwis surrounded by South Africans, and we got smashed. Like true rugby 7s supporters, our South African neighbours swapped their supporter shirts for other nationality’s shirts depending on who was playing. Those that weren’t in their country’s shirts were in dress up and my goodness did we see it all. My favourite was an American flag draped over a supporter with two Mexicans in front, with a wall… All in good fun with the Kenyans and the Fijians proudness shining through in local songs and chants. The rest of us yobos sang to the 80s singalong that played throughout the day. But the real winners of the day were the South Africans who narrowly beat Fiji in a nail-biting finale.

Happy Birthday Dave, I hope it was everything you hoped for, and just a little bit more because you deserve it. As I finish writing this blog you are enjoying a scotch or two in the VA business class bar. As for me, as I am going straight to work when we land with a total of 20 hours sleep over 6 days, I’m tucked up in my flatbed, in my PJs and am reflecting on the four days that was. We travel not to escape life but to ensure life doesn’t escape us. It’s easy to become stressed and wrapped up and not take time for the things that matter. For Dave and I, travel not only represents time together but represents the opportunity to fill our minds with cultural variety, impart new vigour to the mind, to think openly and freely and to absorb everything that our world has to offer.

 

 

Flying High

 

Flying High
Abu Dhabi, United Arab Emirates

 

Abu Dhabi, United Arab Emirates

There are some things in life that an explanation just cannot possibly do justice. However, you know me, I’m never short for a word or two so I’ll certainly give this challenge a crack. Right now, at this very minute I am travelling on Etihad’s new Dreamliner (it’s a cool plane, for those not in aviation) and in business class. I suppose I should explain where we are going, but I’ll get to that in the next blog because right now I’ve got 14 hours of investigating to do.

Backing up a bit, Dave and I, some would say are a little indecisive at times, have spent the last few months procrastinating as to whether to fly economy or business. My airline industry friends ‘gently’ encouraged me to experience this once in a lifetime trip. So here we are.

Shortly after getting escorted to our seats, next to each other in the middle of the plane with raisable divider between, we were greeted with a glass of champagne -and i’m guessing they actually mean the real stuff. Dave, starts to investigate the functionality of all of the buttons. Here’s what my insider source has to say: the button that controls the seats allow the seat to move forward or back toward the foot rest. The seat itself has massaging functionality and ability to alter lumber support and cushion softness. It has multiple reclining options depending if you’re sitting, eating, sleeping, taking off – yes they’re all different. There’s no above the head reading light, but there are three other lights that have four options for dimming. The safety belt is cushioned, the chair has a large cushion and quality fluffy blanket. The compartment has a chair, detached foot rest both of which form a full length flat bed. There’s three tables, one that converts out of the wall, a side table and a bedside table. There’s s huge personal touchscreen tv and remote control, with a function that allows me to call Dave on the telephone, or message him through the tv – yes we’re sitting next to each other, and yes we’ve tried. In my “bedside table drawer” there’s an overnight amenities kit complete with socks, eye pillow, ear buds, toothbrush, and many types of creams for all occasions. My LUXE amenities kit is different to Dave’s, as there are 6 to collect – obviously. Personally, I was happy with the bathroom’s face mist that I swear carries the beautiful fragrant smell throughout the cabin. There’s all this, and then there’s the food. So I mentioned the champagne before take off, well before dinner are more drinks offered and warmed nuts….

Just after take off, the ‘Food and Beverage Manager’ explains to me I may choose to eat at a time that best suits me – as if he needs to be concerned I’m might get ‘hang-ry’. He asks me if I’ve eaten tonight, I tell a white lie and say no as I want to start trying it all immediately! There are 4 options each for entree, main, dessert. There’s cheese and fruit on top of that and an additional menu just “in case”. Even though I’ve just ordered champagne to accompany my warmed nuts, I take my waiters suggestion with wine on offer. He suggest the New Zealand Sav for entree but Chardonnay for main and an aperitif for dessert. It seems as though even waiters know when my face says “I don’t like Chardonnay but don’t want to look a gift horse in the mouth”, so he suggested a TASTING PLATE – I was surprised to see tasting meant real wine glasses filled from an award winning wine menu. What can I say to that? I’ll tell ya… I said “I’m not getting off this plane”!

Fortunately the compartments of business allow for full privacy, which is wonderful as once the food came, I embarrassingly became a bit trigger happy. The private dining table is folded down, complete with white linen table cloth and cloth for the tummy. The tray that the food is served on is metal with lots of silver dishes and real silver cutlery. At one point, I had nearly finished my real champagne, had a white wine, tasting glasses, sparkling water – that’s a lot of glasses considering I didn’t think we were allowed glass! I had an Arabic mezze for entree and Dave had smoked ocean trout – good portion sizes too. As the four mains, Dave had sauté gnocchi and pan fried barramundi for me, and, all food is freshly cooked. In addition to the warm dinner roll and butter, the Waiter serves a full selection of warm bread (the butter is even served in another little silver bowl – as opposed the the plastic containers down with the ‘double digit’ seated passengers). Although I really wanted to keep working my way down the menu, I just can’t fit any more. It’s time to put on the Etihad P.Js and slippers on in the extra large bathroom, return to my flat bed complete with turn down, watch a movie with full surround sound ear phones…… And guess what – I’m relaxed! Proved you wrong Mum, it’s possible!

Well, sort of. I have only slept for two hours because I’m far too excited for that, it’d be a waste to sleep when there is so much to do in 14hours. Dave woke up after 6 Hours, and I was missing. I felt too bad to use the call button, so went to the kitchen to talk with the lady about my wifi on my iPad – and no, it wasn’t on work emails, just an email to home. At that point in the kitchen, I had to disclose to the Etihad staff that I was in the industry, which probably explained why someone in business class had an iPad sticky taped together to hold in the glass. Anyway, I got into a lengthy chat about my favourite place in the world (India), aviation, and Dreamliners. I had to get to the bottom of what this beautiful smell in the cabin was – air fresher, the fancy kind. Here’s a couple of other cool things I learnt. The gentle hum of the plane is actually artificial. The Dreamliner is so quiet that it was making guests paranoid. The air-conditioner has a humidifier to reduce jet lag and dryness. The seats are made from Farari leather. Although the 737 is smaller than the A330, the business class seats in the 737 are bigger. We were lucky enough to get a tour of the first class after we landed. It’s really quite lonely, or personal – depending on which way you look at it. The chairs have the same functionality as business, but bigger. The main difference is they are in individual suites, with Arabic inspired screens providing guests with full privacy even though the screen doesn’t go to the ceiling.

Etihad – your goal was to make flying reimagined. You have certainly achieved that; from the lady at check in who so despretly was hoping she could find us a seat and graciously accepted my hug when we were ‘confirmed’, to the Food and Beverage Manager who treated us like royalty and to the ladies who delivered us a special, off-the-menu breakfast creation (matched with “quote” an extra special pink champagne / not in the menu). I think the timing of that treat worked out perfectly because we still had time for a full breakfast with proper cafe coffee …. Hate to say it, but getting very full now…

Although I said I’d never get used to business, I quite like being referred to as Mrs Morton or madam, albeit slightly uncomfortable when pampering your face with a warm, rose infused towel served to you on a silver soap dish while the double digits are walking past during boarding. When we boarded 14 hours ago, the F&B manager promised ‘this first timer’ would get a once in a life time, trip to remember – he was right. Just when you think that’s it, the team were so kind, they bought me into the kitchen to give me handmade thank you card. I honestly can’t fathom after a trip like this as to why they would be thanking me, but they said it was because I was smily and appreciative. They also made me a blank card to give to Dave for his birthday, and a card to mum and dad as I said I was writing to them. This experience has literally been ‘flying reimagined’.

Just over 18 hours ago I rushed home from work, packed in 3 minutes had a ‘shower in a can’ and got to the airport only to wait to see if we got on. At the end of this journey, I’m feeling relaxed, content, a tad bit spoilt, happy, thankful and thoroughly looking forward to the onward journey with my best mate.

 

2015 Toastmaster’s Speeches

2015 Toastmaster's Speeches
Perth, Australia

Perth, Australia

SPEECH: Ice Breaker – Happiness

Before I start, I want to ask a couple of you to think of a few words about what happiness mean to you

One thing is for sure, Happiness is something we all want and we all crave. Even the Dalai Lama has said “the very purpose of life is to seek happiness” but What exactly is this elusive thing we call happiness?

Its an interesting word and concept which has led me to being here today, and why I'd like to talk to you about my life and what happiness means to me.

For many people in the western world, there isn’t much that we don’t have to strive to achieve. In comparison to much of the world – the difficulties have been taken away from us and replaced with options – from healthcare employment to education and marital status.

Why is it then, with this high standard of living and this many options, do the majority of people strive for more? Why do we want to be thinner, richer, smarter. Maybe it’s because once we achieve this, we'll have found elusive cure for unhappiness.

What if your very efforts to find happiness were actually preventing you from achieving it?

That is the concept I'm thinking a lot about of late while I reflect on my life, a good life but a life that has a common theme. As I summarise my life, see if you can identify the key to what I've been striving for:

It may be hard to believe, but I'm a kiwi! Born into a family who loved to travel. My brother and I did correspondence school for few years while the family travelled around nz in a converted bus and then again while we travelled the world in our pre-teens.

By the time I was 16, the family had the “been there done that” attitude with New Zealand and so we moved to Australia, a new country, new challenge.

I joined tafe, got into the hotel industry on the gold coast before getting bored, felt like I wanted to see more, I moved to Perth. Guess what? Got bored with that too..so moved to Brisbane.

That was 8 years ago.

I bet you're thinking well that’s a long time, isn’t she bored. Something happened in that time. I found my best mate, and now husband.

In the early years, our early 20s, Dave and I used to plan elaborately themed events to keep us occupied, Halloween, Christmas in July and kids themed adults parties to just name a few. They took 6 months to plan and implement, but by the time they were over we had already started planning the next one.

I soon realised that there was more efficient and effective ways to spend money and so an adult life began. We started property development. It started with one new build, then grew to 4 and as now has turned into a sideline business.

It's had its challenges and its rewards, a beautiful cliff top wedding in Bali followed by a year, 5 continent- round the world honeymoon.

Life is happy: got that, done that, been there… Great job in project management, new property challenges: life is busy. Busy means happy right? Or does it?

And that is the point my fellow toastmasters and my final point:

For me – Stop and smell the roses: yes it’s an oldly but a goodie. But I think that is the key to happiness. I have had a great life, but it’s taking the time to stop and realise it.

In my 28 years in this world, I'm only now just learning to be in the present, live in the present, and accept things for what they are. My aim now is to stop looking around the corner for the next thing without appreciating the current: Stop – listen – smell – touch – observe – enjoy.

So, I ask you again to reflect on what is happiness is to you.

How do you know you have achieved it?

Maybe you already have.

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SPEECH: Around the world from your living room.

Mr Toastmaster, members be guests.

WHAT AM I?

· Im a company

· I'm in 34,000 cities in 192 countries worldwide, but I'm probably next door.

· I could be in a yacht or a house boat, a penthouse or a farm shed, I could even be in one of the 600 castles scattered across the world!

· What if I told you I belonged to a trusted online community marketplace for people to list, discover, and book unique accommodations around the world.

· My last clue, my name originates from an air mattress – combined with bed and breakfast

· Have you guessed what I am?

I am AirBnB. And if you're still wondering what AirBnB is, over the next 6 minutes I will explain the concept, our experience as a guest and the benefits of being a host.

AirBnB started in 2007 when a few American roomies realised that the market was saturated with expensive accommodation that didn't offer alternatives for the budget conscious or travellers wishing to network. As they couldn't afford the rent at their San Francisco loft, they decided to kill two birds with one stone and accommodate three strangers on air mattresses followed by a homemade breakfast.

Fast forward a few years and this ten billion dollar online accommodation site has turned into a company where the likes of you and me can book our holidays. It's a simple as searching a location on airbnb.com then filtering by:

Room type – entire place, private room or shared room

Price range and amenities

Property type – standard properties or non-standard such as caves, igloos and tepees

Host language, including sign language

Or even keywords, such as "oceanfront".

So with that in mind here's our experience, as a guest:

We came to hear about airbnb on our round the world adventure in 2013/14. I remember the day like it was yesterday. We had just started the backpacking leg in Norway. To say the 15 minute bus ride into Oslo cost us more than a campsite wouldn't be exaggerating. That particular weekend was saturated with uni students, so hostels weren't available.

Desperate to find somewhere, Tourist Information suggested AirBnB. The first night, staying in a complete strangers house was nerve racking. Then I realised, trust goes both ways. They have strangers in their house, trusted with their belongings. People all around the world are generally good people, notwithstanding there's the review system which keeps us all honest.

We had a few other key experiences that year.

About two months later, the family met up with us in New York for Christmas. With room hotel rates inflated by up to 700% over that period, a private AirBnB loft was our only option. Christmas was so much more homely with the opportunity to cook a turkey rather than a cold room service meal. We weren't the only ones, that same New Year, NYC had more than half a million people using AirBnB!

But the experience that made us decide to be hosts was in a little town in Bordeaux, France. Mona our host met us at the bus station, took us on a tour of the city and finished up by inviting us to an event she was attending that night. Trust me when I say most backpackers don't get many free opportunities to attend a French winemaker’s event. Wine, caviar and canapés, free AND flowing all night, sure we looked a little out of place in our trekking shoes next to the black ties. We met so many interesting people that night. We spoke a mixture of pigeon English, the three words I knew in French and sign language. Mona had an opportunity and she shared it.

Her kindness and willingness to make a difference to a stranger's holiday is something I'll never forget.

That brings me to my last point. Hosting. After returning back home, we decided to list our second bedroom on AirBnB. It's free to create a listing but has a 3% per booking service fee to cover money management and any disputes. As a host I can decide how much to charge per night. My house is promoted through descriptions, photographs, reviews and my is title: Your home away from home.

That's our aim for every guest that walks through the door. To make them feel as if they're in their home, where they can relax, cook real food and have coffee and toast in the morning. Every time our door opens, I could be the first contact this traveller has had in Brisbane or even Australia. I believe that's an opportunity, not a responsibility. I try to ensure their experience is a special one. Often a quick chat with a local will offer a tailor made experience, that Lonely Planet could never offer. I'd like to think I have made a difference to the lives of the 61 individuals, from 16 countries who have walked out our door.r

I love going to work and coming home to little notes on the back of scrap paper, for example this one from a French couple and their little girl Millie:

I'll never see them again, but I've made a difference, as they have to me.

It's an interesting and rewarding concept.. As a host and as a guest.

By opening the doors to stranger; you might find a new friend, or taste the flavours fray of the world, or hear a global event from someone who has experienced in first hand, right there in your living room.

It's no wonder AirBnB have a motto: "One Less Stranger at a time". In a world where seven billion of us can belong anywhere, what a wonderful concept to reduce the number of strangers in the world, one kind, inventive and endearing act at a time.

Mr Toastmaster.

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SPEECH: A journey through your senses (Version 1. Club competition)

MR Content Chair,

Beep Beep Beep – If I hear another BEEEEEEP in my life time… OH Lissssten to that…… another BEEEP

Judges and Fellow Toastmasters,

This evening I want to transport your senses on a journey that took my husband and I overland through the intense, kaleidoscope that is India.

A mystical, spiritual playground that like us at times is a land of contrast, colour, culture..

As we journey together, we will travel over roads, water, and tracks to unlock the essence of India through OUR sights sounds smells tastes and the very feeling of a country you can love and hate at the same time.

There it goes again.. that constant beeping. Our Journey begins now as we embark on a road trip that will assault our senses.

You hear, cars, buses and rickshaws, beeping, revving and crashing into potholes, people shouting, and the sound of Bollywood music streaming from the shopfronts

You feel a sudden lurch as our car jolts to a sudden holt as a cow wanders into our path

You can see us from miles away as a dust cloud sends up a suffocating grit into the air. Through the brown dust, you can see vibrant oranges, yellows and reds of the sari clad woman and holy sadhus

Your mind begins to wander as you imagine those ladies as Bollywood dances bringing movement from within

It shines through in their facial expressions, body movement and hand gestures.

Stop start, swerve, stop start, bump, thump. Thirteen hours later we arrive in the spiritual hub of the north, Varanasi. From a city that can be compared to living in a blender with the lid off to the serenity of the river Ganges

Now, come with me, we are about to take a journey down the river.

What’s that sound? Can you hear it? The sound of the oars silently slapping the river as it quivers.

The wind barely brushes our skin as we float on a wooden raft under the oppressive sun.

There is nothing to do but relax and take it all in.

Five hours later, a tiny island bearly above the water line slides into sight

As sunset looms, our tours food boat awaits our arrival.

The smell, pungent and aromatic – wafts through the air

Dinner is ready

The sight of the colourful spices, reminiscent of the holi festival

The tastes, exotic and flavoursome – a sensory explosion to the taste buds

After a hot restless night under the stars, its time to float back to Varanasi,

past the Ghats with Hindu pilgrims bathing and performing spiritual rituals,

past the locals cremating their loved ones,

past the candles floating by.

We are back on shore, safe and dry.

As we walk towards the train station, our senses become confused by the putrid smell of the scattered rubbish but are partially overwhelmed by the sensual aromas of the Indian street food

Suddenly, our train pulls into the station and it followed by the mad dash of a thousand feet

We feel insignificant as we are pushed in the carriage doors along with the bags, suitcases and chickens

The smell of bodies pressed up against each other engulfs us,

Me and you are just two of the 18 million people who caught the train today, making this anything but an ordinary train trip

As the train departs, our journey of senses has come to an end. This has been anything but an ordinary trip to place like no other.

There is the rest of the world and then there is India.

We have separated out the Colour – The smells – the sounds – the aromas – the flavours – the feelings from this mixing pot of a country.

As we’ve journeyed through together, you would have felt conflicting emotions,

Some say its like a passionate but dysfunction relationship, you will have loved it, you will have hated it but you will want more.

You've awoken your senses, you’ve come alive

This is India

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SPPECH: Past the Chaos (version 7 – area competition)

Beep Beep Beep – If I hear another car BEEEEEEP in my life time… OH lissssten to that…… another BEEEP

Fellow Toastmasters,

Today I want to take you on journey, through the intense kaleidoscope …That is India.… A journey that will challenge your every thought and notion so that YOU see YOUR world differently. This is vital as often our initial negative perceptions overshadow all the positives around us. Are you guilty of missed opportunities, missed friendships, missed experiences because you have jumped to a negative conclusion, past judgement and only seen the worst?

Like life, India is a country that you can love and hate depending on whether you choose to see only the positives or choose to only the negatives.

…and there it goes again that constant beeping. Our Journey begins now, with you in the driver’s seat.

You, cars, buses and rickshaws, beeping, revving and crashing, a cacophony of noise, but through that you hear the strikingly beautiful sounds of Bollywood music.

The brown dust cloud sends a suffocating grit into the air. Suddenly a cow wanders in to our path followed by the cultural sights of the sari clad woman with their passionate eyes. This dusty world seems suddenly more vibrant.

Stop start, swerve, stop start, bump, thump. Thirteen hours later we seek to shake off the feeling of being in a blender with the lid off. We look for serenity and find it on a journey down the River Ganges.

Miles away from the turmoil, listen. What’s that sound? Can you hear it? If we allow ourselves to listen…we can hear the sound of our oars silently slapping.

The wind barely brushes our skin as we float on a wooden raft under the oppressive sun.

Hours later, an old unsanitary food boat slides towards our mudflat of an island.

But the smells, pungent and aromatic – waft through the air

Dinner is ready

The spices are reminiscent of the Holi festival

And the tastes are exotic and flavoursome,

The whole gives a sensory explosion that is distinctly India. Thankfully, we reserve our initial judgement, looking past the negative to enjoy this experience for what it is.

After a restless night under the stars, it’s time to float back

past the chaos,

past the locals cremating their loved ones,

past the rubbish and candles floating by.

We are back on shore, safe and dry.

We begin walking towards the train station and our senses are initially overwhelmed by the putrid smell of the scattered rubbish. With our new outlook, the sensual aromas of the Indian street food permeate through, allowing us to see the moment in a different light.

Suddenly, our train pulls into the station and is followed by the mad dash of a thousand feet

The smell of bodies pressed up against each other engulfs us,

We feel insignificant as we are pushed in the carriage doors with the suitcases and chickens; you and me are just two of the 18 million people who caught the train today. …. But then the mass of bodies kindly moves aside to absorb us into their space, in true Indian style. Our simple mind shift has made the world, its people and its challenges seem a better place.

As the train departs, our journey of choice has come to an end.

As we’ve journeyed through this melting pot of a country we have felt conflicting emotions… the highs and ….the lows. At the onslaught of each emotion or reaction we chose to think differently. By doing so we unlocked the essence of India.

Can our choices through India be compared to your life and mine?

Maybe, India is a metaphor for life

In your world full of rush and stress, choose to see your kids or colleagues smiling and laughing. When your world seems brown and dusty, choose to see the bright blue subtropical sky. Choose to see the positives in a world where they may be hidden by culture, race, judgement or preconceptions. Be the one who sees the world differently. Be the one that gives a smile. Be the one who makes the difference.

Life can be like a passionate but dysfunctional relationship, you will see love, you will see hate but you with the right choices, you will see more.

You've lifted your filters, you’ve opened you mind, you’ve seen the world differently,

Your perception

Your life

Smart Car’s Adventure to the North Shore

Smart Car’s Adventure to the North Shore
Haleiwa, HI

Haleiwa, HI


Plonked on a little peninsular like rock, dusted in sand, the waves of the North Shore beaches of Oahu crashing in front of me, a double shandy in the left hand, a 10 pound bag of lichees in the right, the hassle and bustle of Waikiki is miles behind me. It’s 4pm and at the end of this blog, it’ll be sunset on our final night of our Hawaiian holiday.

These last 14 days have been split between Waikiki, family time on the Big island and back to Oahu for some tranquility on the North Shore. Daily, I find myself saying “this has been a highlight”. As normal, we have squeezed a lot in to a short period of time. We’ve done the whole convertible mustang thing before so the ‘only’ other rent a car, option for seeing Oahu, was a convertible Smart Car. I’ve fallen in love! Not only are they hilarious to look at, fun, totally awesome, and practical to park but they spark up so many conversations with random people. For example, at the traffic lights leaving Waikiki, we were trying to determine how many times our car could fit into the extra long limo next to us. At that moment, the driver wound down the window to talk about fuel efficiency. Dave and I have spent many of hours over the last three days parking in as small, odd shaped parks. You do have to be prepared for pulling up next to an American truck (aka, gigantic ute) while listening to Shaggy on the radio with the roof down and base up though. (Before I move on, Dave has just joined me with the rest of the 12 pack of beers and a few Sprites – we are sorted).

I couldn’t honestly say I had experienced Hawaiian culture by just visiting Waikiki. As soon as we went a few streets back from the Waikiki strip or changed islands, that’s when Hawaii came to life.Out of Waikiki we drove, up past the beautiful million dollar water front homes of Diamond Head and onto the most stunning road, Dave or I have ever taken. The road hugs the ocean, so close that if the kids casted their fishing line back, the hook would get us in the car. We were in awe the whole way up North.

Unlike Waikiki, North Shore is free of hotels, bars, apartments, restaurants and night life. Don’t get me wrong I loved Waikiki, it served it’s purpose as a beautiful tourist destination (for the 72,000 visitors a day) but I believe it lacks Hawaiian authenticity and equality between rich and poor. Taking public buses last week really showed me a different side to the glitter strip. Homeless people line the back street canal in home made tents with rubbish littering around. At that point I was I was itching to see more, learn more and experience more of the 130 Hawaiian Islands. Of course in a limited time, we chose only two other spots to discover, Hilo Hawaii and North Shore Oahu. Hawaii and its culture started poking it’s head out when I started feeling like the culture was closer to that of the Maori culture back home, rather than that of Waikiki and its American culture.

At this point (in tiny font and spoken really quickly) I’m going to admit something. I didn’t realise Hawaii was apart of Polynesian. In my defence, in the 50 countries we have visited, I had never been to the islands (Dave there are $150 flight to Fiji at the moment – subtle hint chucked in). It’s been a few mumble years since school finished and I had long forgotten about Polynesia and that there are more countries out there that resemble New Zealand. Twelve years ago Dave’s sister Cherie used to study at BYU uni and work at the Polynesian Cultural Centre (PCC) as a dancer. I was hesitant (or ignorant) at first to go to PCC because I was concerned this Polynesian-themed theme park was similar to that of DisneyLand or at the very least not authentic. Within six simulated tropical villages, performers demonstrate various arts and crafts from throughout Polynesian. Villages from Tonga, Samoa, Tahiti, Aotearoa, Hawaii and Fiji all had the boa ts, huts, songs, traditional dress from that country.

For those that are / were like, me that didn’t know about the islands in the pacific, here’s a two minute geography lesson. It’s starts like this. There’s this ocean called the Pacific and it’s the biggest in the world, so big that if you got all the land mass in the world and chucked it in the Pacific there’d still be space for another Asia. Next part of this lesson is to chuck in a whole lot of islands and divide them in three sections: Melanesia, Micronesia and the group of the moment, Polynesia. Polynesia looks like a triangle, from Hawaii at the top, to NZ at bottom left then to Rapa Nui bottom right. Of the 2,400 Polynesian islands, 80% are populated and all have similar cultures. The Hawaiian local language, food and dances are more like our Maori family than any of the 32 North American States we have been to, even though California is the closest land to Hawaii. At 2,390 miles from anywhere, Hawaii is the most isolated population centre in the world. This b rings me to the end of your cultural tour. Please come again.

A sceptic at heart, the first stop of the PCC village tour was to Aotearoa, the only place I could validate the centre’s authenticity – sort of anyway. As I took my shoes off, and entered the marae and listened to the music sung by bloodline Maori descendants, the music not only bought gooses bumps to my skin but made me stand tall as a proud Kiwi. The singers each pointed out their ancestors within the Iwis (tribal carvings) on the wall. Within Aotearoa’s village, was a number of other huts where poi dances or flax garments could me made. As stubborn Julia thought we only needed to come for a quarter of the day, we only got to see two other villages. The Hawaiian village where we learnt that the hula dance dates back thousands of years and tells the history of Hawaii through the dance. Hawaii is derived from hawaiki, meaning “place of god” or “homeland”. In 1879 a Portuguese sugar boat had sailors strumming a small guitar, with the Haw aiians thinking the sailor’s fingers looked like jumping fleas. Nowadays, we know that instrument as the ukulele (uka flea, lei lei jump or Ooka laylay). We learnt this from a born and bred Hawaiian with a bloodline dating back 2,000 years. At the Tahitian wedding we learnt it was them who had the grass skirts and ‘hula shaking hips’, not the Hawaiians. Doesn’t that just show you what common misconceptions and travelling teaches you. After a feast set for a king in PCC’s dining hall, we headed over to the amphitheatre to watch the Polynesian performance. I’ve seen a number of shows in my life but this one far out performed even Broadway. The Haka, of course, was my favourite.

I thought I would leave the best bit to last, and the reason I was sold on going there. PCC is a not for profit organisation, it’s owned by the Church of Jesus Christ and Latter Day Saints (Morman), as is the university next door. (BYU). Seventy percent of the PCC staff, approximately 1,300 employees, are students at BYU Hawaii. Although it is largely a commercial venture, PCC profits fund various scholarship programs at BYU–Hawaii. Students may work up to 20 hours per week during school terms and 40 hours during breaks. The centre was opened in 1963 as a way to provide employment and scholarships for students at BYU-Hawaii and to preserve the cultures of Polynesia. In other words, the $100 entrance fee funds students from all around Polynesia to get an education without leaving with a student loan. What a brilliant idea.

Interesting Fact: Honolulu is the largest city in the world. According to Hawaii’s State Constitution, any island not named as belonging to a country belongs to Honolulu. Therefore all other, uninhabited islands belong to Honolulu. The drive up the East Coast took us past the beautiful beaches that you would have heard of from Fifty First Dates or the sharp mountain peaks you would have seen in Jurassic Park. What you wouldn’t have expected was that the famous North Shore, where the winter Pipeline Surf Comp at Sunset Beach is held, is not all built up. Apart from one resort, Turtle Bay down the eastern end, there are no hotels or resorts, surplus restaurants or shops. To the contrary, food trucks, shacks and houses replace anything that resembles Waikiki. Talking to the locals here, as soon as it becomes built up, they’re moving on. It was actually quite difficult to find accommodation. Airbnb of course was available as it’s in someone’s house but we felt like we wanted to rent a whole house, beachside without the price tag. We struck gold, a one bedroom surfer shack with lounge and kitchen AND across the road from Shark Bay, 5mins from Sunset or Waimea. Sure, it’s very old, been cleaned by surfers, no aircon with doors that hardly open but it’s cheap and the location is on the money. Out the window is the ocean. Apart from the accommodation options, the food options are also very different to Waikiki. North Shore has food trucks scattered everywhere as an alternative. In particular, Kahuku’s food trucks offer plenty of options, in particular, shrimp. I’m not a huge prawn (scampi) fan but Giovanni’s Aloha Shrimp van had a queue a mile long for a reason. $13 gots us a dozen huge, succulent juicy prawns, dosed in garlic and lemon butter for lunch. We tried another shrimp truck another day but Giovanni’s was worth the wait. Always go with the recommendation, similar to the shaved ice. Hawaii is known for shaved ice, particularly ‘Hawaiian Style’ with ice cream at the bottom, the ice with favoured syrup then condensed milk as a topping. Hard to believe there is good and bad shaved ice! Haleiwa Town, a few KMs down the road has the one or two restaurants open past 6pm which we dined in a few times for a Mexican dinner and Hawaiian breakfast. My favourite meal was the fo od truck with the fish tacos. Interesting Fact: The hang loose or Shaka hand gesture is derived from a leader who lost his three middle fingers on his right hand. Whenever he waved, it looked like shaka.

 

Somehow, in two and a half days, we managed to fit in all of the above and a visit to the following places:

– Firstly, the Dole Plantation where 1/3 of the world’s pineapples grow. We opted out of the 20 minute train ride around the dirt (no pineapples at present) and ate the Dole pineapple ice-cream with pinnacle juice and pineapple topping instead. AMAZING!

– Secondly, Turtle Bay for a snorkel and the best burger ever (thanks Cherie for the recommendation). I wouldn’t be visiting there for the turtles however, nice calm bay with a lot of tourists in deck chairs. You’re more likely to see a seal these days, not turtles.

– Thirdly, and a must do in Oahu, the Waimea waterfall. We were so lucky with this one. We got to the entrance 20 mins before it opened, first in line and then hiked the 20mins walk through beautiful botanical gardens (5000 species of plants) to the waterfall. Around 1,000 people a day make their way to this 13.5m drop waterfall into a 10m deep pool. Dave and I enjoyed 20mins of this magnificent beauty, solely by ourselves. As soon as the first set of tourists arrived we were out.

– Fourthly, the stunning beaches of the North Shore. Dave loves his snorkelling so we hopped around from beach to beach. My favourite was Shark Bay. A beach that offered this huge rock pool for kids but then adults jumped off the rock into super deep water, 15m, clarity to the bottom. Dave’s favourite was Three Point Bay with the hundreds of angel fish.

– Fifthly, was the last beach Dave wanted to take me. A local’s spot down by La’ie. It’s a beach he visited 10years ago when visiting Cherie. It was obvious no one saw the hidden public beach access sign. Dave and I had our last swim in an ocean all to our self, a walk down the beach with only our foot steps left in the sand.

And that brings me to this final sunset, here, now, as I watch the sun fall into the Pacific for the final time. With Dave next to me, we reflect back on the wonderful holiday in this beautiful place and the Aloha we have been given from the beautiful Hawaiian people, our family and from our new friends. Mahalo