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Tolon, Greece

All good things must come to an end, as do all things that cause you grief. We took our last train of the 60 day Eurail pass today. First class carriages have their advantages. On the Norwegian trains (free hot chocolate), Italian trains (free wifi and welcome snack) and Austrian trains (fancy chairs) whereas the French trains and the French gave us nothing but exorbitant reservation fees and transportation strikes. Unbudgeted reservation and supplement costs came in at about $900 over and above the prepaid $3,000 rail pass.
In 60 days we visited 36 cities in 17 countries. We stayed in some places a few hours, but averaged 1-2 nights. We caught 58 trains including 4 overnight trains, most of which we ran to but never missed and occasionally very nearly forgot to get off. Although I cursed the Eurail pass daily, in the 59 days, we managed to cover 10,942km in 159 hours spent on trains!
Day 60 is tomorrow, we are using the last day to get to Greece as the 24 hour car and passenger ferry is (mostly) included in our Eurail pass. This ferry resembles a cruise ship, complete with restaurant deck and a pool. We have been married 5 months today and are spending it in separate single sex dormitories. I have an 18 lady dormitory to myself as most people are sleeping on booked chairs inside or benches outside.

To see family when you’ve been surrounded by strangers is always an overwhelming feeling. Seeing Jenny and Uwe waiting for us at Patras port in Greece was something we had both been looking forward to and talking about for many years leading up to this trip. We are here. Within moments of being picked up from the ferry we were off to a secret location for the night. Our first night was in the fanciest hotel we have stayed in in the last 165 days. This backpacker will never take a private bathroom and bedroom for granted but we had a king size room with lounge area and balcony for goodness sake. Dinner was served on little tables on the grass, nestled between olive trees, overlooking the acres of olive plantations. We were speechless. A wedding present from Jenny and Uwe that was enjoyed and will be remembered. The location was in Olympia. A must see spot when visiting Greece and we have been fortunate enough to have had the opportunity. Olympia, the home of the Olympic Games, the most famous games in history.They began in 776 BC and were held here until 393 AD. That’s 2,796 years ago, so seeing statues, remains of buildings and jewellery from such a long time ago but with such significant importance today, was really a priceless experience.
The trip back to Jenny and Uwe’s holiday house in the tiny village of Tolo Greece took us over the impressive Greek mountain ranges. Most people, when they think of Greece, think islands and blue houses but they should really think mountains – 80% of Greece is mountainous and has zero navigable rivers because of the mountainous terrain. So you can imagine how picturesque the 4 hour drive through, over and around them was.

Unfortunately the first day in beautiful coastal town of Tolo was a disaster as we just found out we have to apply for a US visa application. We realised we are in USA 2 weeks over the standard 3 months visa waiver. We planned on having an interview for the visa in Athens US Embassy in a few days, but when it came to booking the interview, their 2-3 day wait time went to 2-3 weeks. They couldn’t offer us one until 2 days before we flew to the USA. So, we rebooked (and repaid the application fees) in London as well as forfeited all flights booked and cancelled our trip to Crete, one of the Greek islands. A costly, frustrating and avoidable mistake. But we live and learn. Fortunately we are here in Jenny and Uwe’s village of Tolo while we had this issue to sort. When we desperately needed internet and phone for our Visa application, the owners of the local bar and local restaurant gave us their personal phone to call on and printer to use (thank you Nikolas and Adoni). This is a place where people go out of their way to help.

Tolo is really something else, something quite special. I’m sure I can’t possibly do it justice explaining it, but I’ll try. This little fishing village with a road in and a road out is located in a cove, surrounded by glass like water with at least 10 km perfect visibility and no wind. The beach is undisturbed with the clearest water I have ever seen. In fact as I write this, a local has swum out, caught an octopus with a spear gun and is in the process of tenderising it by whacking it against the wharf.
Jenny and Uwe spend 6 months of the cold English winter in Greece’s warmer weather and have done for 30years. Many other English do the same so there’s a real community feel to this place between the English residents and Greek locals. Relationships are formed between the local business owners and residents. Everyone knows everyone from the fisherman having a beer on the wharf to the local who delivers a daily gift of a piece of fruit to anyone sitting along the beach. I couldn’t even say I know my neighbour’s name. Here, everyone has the time to get to know each other and stop for a chat. It’s a place where if someone dies, has a christening or wedding the whole town is invited or attends. The good and the bad moments are shared in this close community. The church marks occasions by a distinct bell that is heard all through the village. Children from 4 to adults learn the Greek national dances. (Jenny is fantastic at it!) There aren’t many places in the world left where locals of all ages know their village’s traditional dance. Oxi day (similar to Remembrance day) was held while we were here. The tiniest of children smartly dressed in blue and white outfits marched down the road to the Greek national anthem. Greek traditions are celebrated and passed down from generation to generation as are the Greek customs.

Each of the 8 warm sunny mornings started with breakfast on Jenny and Uwe’s large balcony overlooking the turquoise Greek waters. Mornings turning into afternoons at the Romvi Taverna were only indicated by Dave’s stick-in-sand sundial. The beach front location had nothing to do but swim, relax and enjoy the Romvi’s food, beer and seawater literally at our feet. You know you’re too relaxed when you’ve spent an hour watching a hermit crab playing in the water. Once torn away from a book; we hired a boat to explore the surrounding Islands, went on a road trip around the neighbouring coastal villages, to Nikolas bar for a nightcap or to a taverna (Greek restaurant) for dinner. I mentioned that I missed home cooked meals, particularly roast dinners. The next thing we knew we were enjoying the best English roast dinner we’ve ever had at their friends house, Bridget and Milto. On the Sunday we went out on a large ferry to two neighbouring Saronic Islands, Hydra and Spetses. Jenny and Uwe’s friends are the owners of the ferry company and we were lucky enough to have them come out with us for the day and play tour guide. There are 2,000 Greek Islands all postcard perfect, but out of the two visited, Hydra was my favourite. The old village surrounds a crescent-shaped harbour. Steep stone streets lead up and outwards from the harbour area. Magenta bougainvillea provides the accent on blue doors and white building walls. With no cars, horses provide all transportation. At Lulus taverna we enjoyed yet another huge shared Greek mezze meal. The food in Greece is some of the best in the world and some of the oldest. Greek food today, with slight variations, is about the same as it has been for over 2,000 years. The Greek salad, local olives, dolmades and greek yoghurt all taste better here but of course that’s just the start of the food, beer and retsina (Greek wine) we have enjoyed consuming.

We haven’t experienced anything like this before. Tolo, its neighbouring suburbs and islands are perfect in every way. Although it’s nearing quiet season, it feels like an undiscovered jewel. We have been well taken care of by our family. We’ve been fed, watered, pampered and cared for. Our batteries have been reviv
ed. Thank you Jenny and Uwe for giving us the perfect week away. A mixture of support and assistance through the visa issues, sightseeing, excursions and relaxing but most importantly, quality time with family – a week to remember.

As the sun rises for the final time for us over Tolo, we head off to the capital Athens before flying to London to get our visa sorted. It’s off with the bikini and back to the hiking boots.
Athens is a huge concrete city with the size only truly appreciated from the heights of the Acropolis. The former citadel is plonked above the city and contains the remains of several ancient buildings including the Parthenon. To be frank, they are in the process of restoring it so it looks like a giant 3D puzzle about to be assembled. I wonder how many puzzles are completed in an interview for an ancient ruins restorer.
Athens does have a great feel to it, walking through the narrow winding streets, eating the local cuisine – but it is just another ‘city’. I think of the last week that was and think how different our perception of Greece would have been without being able to get into a small village and experience all the wonderful things associated with that. It also comes to mind now that we are back into a city, how the last 2 months around Europe would have been if we weren’t bound to cities, as that’s where the train line take us. Pros and cons to both but a place where you’re just a number in a crowd will never be as good as being warmly greeted each day by a villager.

From the minute we set foot in Greece, we have been consumed by the Greek landscape – the blue sky above, the white sand below, the olive groves and mountains and of course the sun! Each year they enjoy more than 250 days of sunshine or 3,000 sunny hours. This country is no escape from the everyday, but is an excuse to see it, smell it, feel it, taste it and consider it from the perspective of the locals living it.

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